Kebaya comes from the Arabic 'Kaba' which means 'clothing' and were introduced by the Portuguese when they landed on Southeast Asia. Kebaya word is defined as a type of clothing (tops / blouse) was first used by Indonesian women in the period of the 15th century or the 16th AD. Lombard argument by analogy would thank especially the linguistic search yet until now we still know 'Abaya' which means a long tunic typical Arab. While some others believe Kebaya nothing to do with women's tunic dress during kekasiran Ming China, and this influence is transmitted after a massive immigration visited the peninsula of South and Southeast Asia in the 13th century to the 16th AD. Then spread to Malacca, Java, Bali, Sumatra and Sulawesi. After the acculturation that took place hundreds of years, the clothing is received in the culture and norms setempat.Sebelum 1600, on the island of Java, the kebaya is worn clothes that only the royal family there. During the period of Dutch control of the island, European women began wearing kebaya as formal wear. During this period, kebaya changed from only using mori fabric using silk with colorful embroidery. We need to view the spread and introduction of Islam in Indonesia (15th century) to determine the development of modern kebaya today. Very strong Islamic influence kebaya silhouette in the early development. Kebaya initially said the strong suspicion is a simple tunic tops shaped length protruding from the neck to the knee (baju kurung). This reminds us of the abaya and the Malay kebaya. Such clothing is necessarily shift the traditional tank. In some parts of Indonesia can even find a woman who appeared without any boss (Bali, Lampung, Java). The habit of dressing like that also displaced, although in some custom events have to dress like that anymore, especially in Bali. Documentation longer belongs to the royal family and palace (Surakarta, Yogyakarta, Cirebon) in Java is still a long record of this kebaya with several ornaments attached state in several side (19th century). And hours bracelet worn out arm kebaya, while brooch series (three rows) pinned on the front to form a lid. This type of game finally penetrated the material. Rough cotton and weaving traditional of course be the trigger bakalnya. However, velvet, silk, and cotton flannel and then replace the hard material was in accordance with the entry of the European colony to Indonesia and open lines of textile trade between countries (since 18.Kesesuaian next century starts from the pattern and style. Modifications, innovation, and creativity to bring fresh air this time of kebaya fashion. He is like off without bond. Putu new, short tunic kebaya to tlisman pack a lot of colors and patterns are beautiful game in the beginning of the 19th century. The period of the 19th century and the movement in the early 20th century is a glorious time for the kebaya. Kebaya located in the lively subject of Indonesian society, as well as European and Chinese immigrants with a range of adjustment. Before the class, explain to them, Kebaya is almost evenly worn by Indonesian women as usual until the special creations made by the nobles and the palaces. Kebaya nobility and the family palace made of silk, velvet, ornate and bold fabric (Brocade); class of ordinary wear coarse cotton and weaving; of European descent usually wear kebaya made from fine cotton with lace accents (brocade) in the margins whereas for the Dutch women wear cotton kebaya with shorter pieces. At that time many Europeans and even the Dutch themselves to buy a variety of kebaya in the Netherlands. This period began to be infiltrated elements Kebaya class syncretism. There Kebaya Royal Palace and the ornate gold thread (gold thread embroidery ) with a velvet material. special piece that is used by upper-class women also gave former real as Kartini kebaya. Pakem-grip began to form. certain patterns are limited in the line of blue blood. Kebaya began dikaplingkan in classes caste paradoxical.
Rampant nationalism of the 1920s. Organizations formed by traditional Indonesian and Dutch East Indies government called for nationalism aloud. Political conditions at that time also affect the preferences of the fashion community. National kebaya already considered bercitra with all indigenous struggle. Women of European descent and the Netherlands left the kebaya as everyday wear them because the traditional image of the indigenous earlier. This minimizes the development period Kebaya fashion. Almost no significant material innovation, especially the formation and silhouette patterns. Such conditions lasted until the next two decades until the worst came. The period 1942-1945 was the worst with the most minimal notes about the state of Indonesia, including fashion. Women in the occupation of Japan fell in the lowest place in history. Without exception; indigenous, descendants of European, Chinese, Dutch and thrown in jail and was employed with a bang. Kebaya worn by Indonesian women prisoners, while the shirt and overalls worn by European and Dutch descent. Unwritten rule is, somehow, applies to almost every Japanese prison camps. Here, the Kebaya is indigenous, the other colonies. Do not think about innovation, produksinyapun fall pathetic. In fact, the Japanese occupation of Indonesia also cut textile trade routes and supporting equipment. Many production houses closed kebaya. Batik fabric companies are rampant in the period was also required to make labor-intensive solution to simply survive. The solution most widely adopted is a merger between several small companies that make batik, kebaya, and convection cottage industry. But it did not have much impact for the development of a fashion era. Political temperature changes occur every hour. World War II was the Dark Ages for fashion homeland, even the world. Except for Chanel and Hugo Boss are indeed fascist lover at that time, many fashion houses in the world suffered a setback.
Woman National Heroes R.A. Kartini wearing kebaya and batik
Again the raging political factors. Revolution of Indonesia's independence in 1945 brought nationalist constellation Kebaya on a more absolute. Than a traditional indigenous, Kebaya radiating into nationalist and breathe freedom. The educated woman who is close to the Soekarno government at that time a lot of different wearing kebaya, especially the type of new and Kebaya encim putu still no trace today. Some people respond to this condition as a golden period Kebaya until the 1960's. Almost all women, whether in the office, at home, wherever performed berkebaya. Kebaya national image that was taken so strong, but attached to the aristocracy of certain pro-Sukarno. India, China, and parts of Southeast Asia dominate the Indonesian textile market. Western sentiment in Sukarno, Sukarno and his own sentiments in Western Europe limit the path of commodity exchanges and Indonesia. Seen is various shades and colors Kebaya diverse. Pieces and old patterns re-meruak though still holding the grip-grip created by the previous century.Kebaya had fully recovered from the trauma of political, he must experience once again the blow. The transition of power from Sukarno to the New Order government under Suharto in 1965 put Kebaya in a weak position. Images and symbols are carried in the Soekarno Kebaya made her shunned. Women who do not feel involved with the political turmoil of the Old Order (Soekarno) chose not to wear the Kebaya. Overalls and shirts Modern women are more popular than the Kebaya. Slowly but surely, Kebaya knocked out in an exclusive box Dharmawanita (women's organizations formed a civil servant's wife since 1974). With its orange-salmon, Kebaya become the official uniform of this organization.
Until the 1980's Kebaya increasingly isolated among military wives and servants, although some kinds of local designer Iwan Tirta trying to preserve it. The good news is the role of information and exchange of commodities between countries is wide open again. Just how creative hands Nations children use it. No time-consuming, early 90s Ghea Panggabean perform meaningful experiments in Kebaya. Within the scope of the upper class, He used silk organdy and other natural fibers that are categorized as luxury becomes Kebaya. Among the elite and educated women, Kebaya this kind, which then also developed by many other local designers, has a special predicate. He is legitimately used in formal occasions both personal, family, or statehood. 90s also Kebaya started getting bigger place. Even having seen great economic promise. Indonesian designers agree, Kebaya is a genre typical of the fashion world is promising. They began to glance at it, learn them, and then be creative with it. The key is innovation! It seems the demand creation and accentuation of the users is also a big factor that drives Kebaya back to the era of 19th-century period in which the Kebaya have the freedom to berkembang.Terpisah of traditional kebaya, fashion designers are looking for ways to modify the design and making kebaya became more modern clothes . Kebaya is modified it can even be worn with jeans or skirts. Kebaya current developments are highly variable, ranging from models that modify kebaya Kartini
